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(from Fred Langa: InformationWeek.com)
What do you do if your laptop continually overheats? There's an alternative to buying a new one - Fred Langa says it might be as simple as giving it a good dusting.
All "air-breathing" laptops/notebooks (those that rely on drawing air through the case for cooling) share at least a few similarities: there's usually one or more air intakes through which cool air enters the system; a heat exchanger that dumps excess thermal energy from the CPU or system as a whole into the incoming cool air; and one or more exhausts through which the now-warmed air exits the system, carrying the heat away.
Most higher-powered laptop/notebooks use one or more fans to assist the airflow; it's a miniaturized version of the same type of cooling system found in most full-sized PCs. But some laptop/notebook systems rely on natural convection - warm air rising - to move the air around. These systems still have case openings and an internal heat exchanger, but no fan.
Still other units, especially handhelds and some smaller, standard PCs, have no case openings for airflow. Instead, they use the case itself as a heat exchanger. These units tend to be lower-power to begin with, so they have less heat to dissipate. Overheating is a much rarer issue with these units; and any such problems are usually resolved simply by turning the unit off for a while, or moving it to a cooler spot (eg, out of the sun).
For this article, we'll focus on the true "air breather" laptops/notebooks; those that have case openings, an internal heat exchanger and (usually) a fan. And, for convenience, we'll refer to this whole class of units as "laptops," even though some of them are too large and heavy for routine laptop use. Similarly, we'll include "tablet" PCs in the general category of laptops; they fit into the discussion as long as they have case openings for cooling.
What Causes Overheating In Laptops?
When a laptop gets too hot, the cause almost always boils down to one of three main issues: dust and dirt blocking airflow through the unit; a dead fan; or environmental causes.
Whatever the cause, the unit can't get rid of its heat, and temperatures climb inside the case. If you're lucky, the laptop's heat-sensing circuits will shut everything down when temperatures reach dangerous levels; you may lose data, but your hardware will probably survive, at least for a while.
If you're less lucky, you'll start getting data errors or lockups. Here, too, you may lose data, but you may be able to save the hardware through a prompt manual shutdown.
In a worst case, or after repeated lesser overheating episodes, your laptop may simply end up cooked to death; either inoperative, or so unreliable as to be worthless.
Of the three main reasons for overheating, the environmental issues are the most obvious and easiest to avoid: don't use your laptop in full sunlight for extended periods; don't leave it in a closed car on a sunny day; don't place it on or near extreme heat sources, such as radiators, hot air vents, and so on. Common sense, really - and the same advice that's in almost every owner's manual for almost all portable electronic devices.
The other two reasons - dead fans and dust and dirt - both cause reduced airflow through the laptop. You can look for and solve these problems the same way. Most times, you won't have to open the laptop's case, so there's no issue of voiding the warranty, and nothing that requires exotic tools or training. In fact, it's so simple a procedure, I'm amazed more people don't do it.
Inspection:
Start with a thorough visual inspection of all the laptop's case openings, and make a mental note of any dust and dirt accumulations.
First, find the air exhaust, intake, and fan(s), if any.
While the inlets, outlets, and fan are the obvious places to look, be sure to check any and all other openings in the laptop. For example, the docking port opening.
Similarly, the card slots, network plug openings, floppy and CD drive openings and the like also need inspection: a flashlight or other bright light source may help you peer inside the smaller/darker openings without having to take anything apart. Make a mental note of any locations where you find a dust build-up.
Laptop hard drives and RAM banks are heat producers, and a layer of dust can act like a sweater, trapping heat inside. If these components are readily accessible on your system, you can carefully remove their access covers to see if any dust is accumulating there. Be sure you only look; don't touch, as these components are static-sensitive.
Start the cleanup:
An ordinary clean, dry cotton swab will work to loosen or remove much of the dust and dirt visible through your laptop's openings. If the full swab won't fit, peel away as much cotton as needed to reduce the swab's diameter. Your primary goal simply is to loosen any stuck-on dust or "fur balls" inside the laptop.
Once the worst of the dust has been loosened or removed mechanically with the cotton swabs, use compressed air to complete the job. An inexpensive can of compressed air can help your cleaning immensely by providing highly controllable, highly directional, very intense bursts of air. The cans usually come with a long plastic nozzle that's ideal for working inside crevices and hard-to-reach places. Many brands of "air in a can" are available; your local office-supply or electronics store probably stocks several.
No matter what air source you use, be careful not to overspin the laptop's fan: a strong blast of compressed air can spin a small fan like a pinwheel, over-revving it enough to damage the motor or bearings. To prevent such damage, keep the fan from spinning as you clean it. A clean cotton swab carefully inserted between the fan's blades works well.
With the laptop's fan blades secured, manoeuvre the flexible tip of the compressed air dispenser to access every part of the laptop that you can reach around and through the fan assembly, from every possible angle. And be careful: you may be surprised at how much debris whooshes out with the first few blasts of air! Note also that some "compressed air in a can" products can spray a supercooled liquid if you invert the can. This is good for neither the laptop nor anything else the liquid may touch; and it actually can cause frostbite on human skin. Once again: read and follow all the directions that accompany whatever compressed air product you use.
Work your way around the laptop, swabbing and blowing out all openings where you previously identified dust buildup.
Wrapping Up:
Replace any covers or access panels you previously removed, and reinstall the battery pack. When the laptop is right-side up, you may wish to use some of your remaining compressed air to blow out the keyboard area. Cotton swabs also can help clean any other cracks and crevices around the screen or keyboard.
You also may wish to use a soft, slightly dampened cloth to wipe down the case and screen; be very careful not to rub hard on the screen, which may be vulnerable to scratching or breaking; and use care not to let any liquid drip into any part of the laptop.
When you're done cleaning, fire up the laptop, preferably on AC power, so it will run at full speed and produce maximum heat. Listen carefully: the fans should operate as they did before. For example, if your fans always came on at initial startup, at least for a few seconds, make sure you hear them spinning during this startup. Or, if your fans normally would come on after, say, five minutes of full-power operation, wait the full five minutes to ensure the fans are now working properly.
If they're not, try a simple fix: with the laptop turned on and running, very, very slowly and carefully move it - no sharp jolts or fast, sudden moves! - so you have access to the fan. Using one of your cotton swabs from before, gently nudge the fan blades in the proper direction. Sometimes, that's all a fan needs to get going after it's been stuck: it may then spin normally for a long time to come.
But if not, your laptop needs service; it should not be used with a dead fan, or permanent damage may occur.
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